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PALITANA
THE TEMPLECLAD
SUMMIT OF SHATRUNJAYA
Commanding
a special place on the Gujarat travelers' map, Palitana is a `must visit'
destination for the Jains and all those who would like to witness what
the subtle combination of human enterprise, architectural skills, philanthropy
and channelised religious fervour can achieve. The entire summit of majestic
mount Shatrunjaya is crowned with about 900 temples, each rivaling the
other for beauty and magnificence, presenting an awe-inspiring spectacle
to devotees and visitors.
The town was an imperial
Thana during the Mughal era, which grew into the capital of Palitana State
of the princely Kathiawad. The feuds and the rivalries culminating into
the battles during the reign of Rajput king Unadji reminds us of the sacrificial
chivalry of that age. Taking advantage of the occupation of Bhavnagar
army with Maratha forces, Unadji had attacked Sihor. In retaliation Gohil
Wakhatsinhji, the then ruler of Bhavnagar, laid siege on Palitana. Unadji's
stubborn resistance, which compelled the Bhavnagar forces to retire, is
even today, many generations later remembered by the residents of this
temple town.
The mount Shatrunjaya lies
hardly a kilometer away from the town, the way, which is now thronged
on both the sides by sarais and minor temples, including Kala Bhandars
(museums). The mountain is associated with Rishabhdev, the first tirthankar,
also known as Adinath. It is believed that all the tirthankars, except
Neminath, attained nirvan here; imparting sacredness and earning an epithet
of Siddhakshetra. The summit is divided into two peaks, but the valley
between has been partly built with masonry by a wealthy Jain merchant
Motishah. The entire summit is covered with temples among which the most
famous are those of Adinath, Kumarpal, Vimalshah, Samprati Raja and the
Chomukh, which is the highest and can be distinguished from a distance.
The multitude of temples, half palaces, half fortresses and made of splendid
marble, with their spires aiming the skies present a spectacle unmatched
for its scale and magnitude.
Visitors naturally wonder
how such a mammoth task of covering the entire summit with temples has
been achieved. The answer is simple. Generations after generation of Jain
devotees have spent money on some construction or the other on the Shatrunjaya.
This is aptly described in Ras Mala thus: There is hardly a city in India,
through its length and breadth, that has not supplied at one time or other,
contributions of wealth to the edifices which crown the hill of Palitana.
Because of its sanctity,
every devout Jain aspires to climb to the top of the mountain at least
once in his lifetime. The journey is arduous. The walk up the stone stairway
hewn into the mountain face takes about an hour and a half. For those
unable or unaccustomed to the strain, sling-chairs are available at a
bargain. The code for the climbers is stringent, in keeping with the rigours
of the Jain faith. Food must neither be eaten nor carried on the way.
The descent must begin before it is evening, for no soul can remain atop
the sacred mountain during the night and Gods are to be left alone. Such
is the mystique of Palitana, the summit of Shatrunjaya.
While atop one can also visit
a Muslim shrine of Angar Pir. The Pir's blessings are invoked by the childless
women for to be blessed with children. They offer miniature cradles to
the Pir and the shrine is strewn with such cradles.
Visitors with special interest
in temple ornament can contact Hill Inspector or The Manager, Anandji
Kalyanji Trust, for viewing the jewellery that adorn the deities on ceremonial
occasions.
Access and Accommodation
Palitana is on the Western
Railway metre gauge line and is well connected to Ahmedabad, 277 kms.
by rail and 215 kms. by road.Nearest airport at Bhavnagar is 62 kms.S.T.
& luxury buses ply regularly.
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